How to Torque Lug Nuts

Step 1 of 6

Find the Torque Spec

There is no one torque value for a stud size. The right number depends on the vehicle, the wheel and the fasteners, so start with the maker's spec.

• Cars and pickups: use the vehicle maker's spec from the owner's manual or service information.
• Trailers: use the axle or wheel maker's chart. Dexter's chart is below.
• Medium and heavy trucks: use the wheel maker's spec for the wheel and nut system.

Dexter trailer wheel torque (ft-lb)

Dexter Axle Product Bulletin #409 (October 2019). 12 to 16.5 in wheels on 1/2 and 9/16 in studs use 60 degree cone nuts. For other wheels, follow the wheel maker.

Step 2 of 6

Clean and Check

The Tire Industry Association's RIST method starts here: remove debris, then inspect. Dirt or rust between the wheel and hub can let the clamp loosen later.

1. Remove debris from the hub face, the wheel's mounting face and the nut seats.
2. Inspect studs and nuts. Replace any with damaged or stretched threads.
3. Match the fasteners to the wheel, including the cone angle (60 or 90 degrees). See the Lug Nut Finder.
4. Lubricate only when the spec says to. Dexter calls for greased threads on 17.5 in clamp ring wheels, and Alcoa calls for oiled nuts on hub piloted wheels. Otherwise follow the vehicle maker.

Step 3 of 6

Start by Hand, Snug in a Star

Going around in a circle pulls the wheel on crooked. A star (crisscross) pattern draws it down evenly against the hub.

1. Start every nut by hand so none of them cross thread.
2. Snug them in the star order shown, just enough to seat the wheel flat. Pick your stud count to see the order.
3. Use the same order for every stage that follows.

Step 4 of 6

Torque in Stages

Bring every nut up in two or three passes, in the star order, with a calibrated torque wrench. Dexter calls the torque wrench the proper method.

1. Set the wrench to the first stage, lock it, and pull smoothly on the handle until it clicks. Do every nut in order.
2. Repeat at each stage until you reach the final value. Example: 1/2-20 studs on a 15 in trailer wheel go 20-25, then 50-60, then 100-120 ft-lb.
3. Don't use the torque wrench to break nuts loose. It is a measuring tool. Use a breaker bar or impact wrench to remove nuts.

Step 5 of 6

Using Torque Sticks

A torque stick is a torsion bar that goes between an impact wrench and the socket. It twists once it reaches its rating, so the impact can't run the nut far past it.

1. Pick the stick by its rating, not just its color. Colors are a brand's own code. Even within Lock Technology, the BB socket stick is turquoise at 150 ft-lb while the BB extension is orange at 160.
2. Use it for tightening only, never for removing nuts.
3. Run the impact on a low setting and stop when the stick starts to twist.
4. Check every nut with a torque wrench. Torque limiting extension makers say their sticks are not for final torque.

Lock Technology 1/2 in drive torque sticks we stock

1500 series sticks with a built in socket. The 1400 series extensions take your own socket: C gray 100, E blue 80, F yellow 65, I white 120, K purple 110, Q aqua 140, BB orange 160. The Ascot 168-12410 extension is gray at 100 ft-lb.

Step 6 of 6

Re-torque After the First Miles

Wheels settle against the hub in the first miles, and nuts can lose clamp. Re-check with a torque wrench in the same star order.

• Trailers (Dexter): torque before the first road use and every time a wheel comes off, then check and re-torque after the first 10, 25 and 50 miles, and check periodically after that.
• Commercial disc wheels (Webb Wheel): recheck after the first 50 to 100 miles of service, or follow your fleet's TMC RP 237A practice.
• Cars and pickups: follow the vehicle maker's recheck guidance.